When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.
The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.
A passionate sports journalist with over a decade of experience covering Italian football and local Turin events.